Mandy Sue, Mother of Two

The first time I visited Taormina, was upon recommendation from the guidance counselor of my study abroad program.  I remember the beauty of the brilliant blue waters and the cacti and orange trees as I looked out the window on the ride from Catania airport to where we stayed in Giardini Naxos. 

Since then, Taormina was featured in season two of the White Lotus and has since gained international popularity.  It is no longer possible to simply walk through the grounds of the San Domenico Palace hotel, now a Four Seasons property, but you can book a reservation for a meal at one of their restaurants for access to the grounds.  It truly is a special place to spend an afternoon.

I got a chance to visit again this past summer and it was just as magical as I remember.  We stayed at a wonderful Airbnb in town.  The apartment was the part-time home of the parents of the host, and you could feel the love in every crevice of this cute Sicilian home.  It was a bit of an uphill climb from the main drag, but that helps to offset all the carbs and gelato. Here’s a link in case you’re planning a visit.  https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/18165564?source_impression_id=p3_1713393073_5k6QJaqcI25r2h%2Bi

We visited in the first week of August, and if you’ve ever visited Italy in August you’d know that that is the month when all the Italians go on their summer holiday.  Although this resort town was a bit more crowded as a result, there is something about the streets being full, particularly in the evenings as it seems everyone is out for an evening “passeggiata”, that really completed the feeling of immersion into Italian/Sicilian culture. Passeggiata is a cherished Italian tradition that usually occurs in the evening hours both before and after dinner involving leisurely strolls, engaging conversations, and lots of people-watching. The town really exploded with people during this time of day, and it seemed as though it was mostly Italians, not Americans.

As a family with a toddler, we spent most of our time trying to stay cool at the beach.  It is very easy to get to the beach from the town of Taormina.  Taormina is located up on a cliff, so you can either drive, or take the convenient gondola that connects the town to the beaches.  There are lots of stairs climb even down by the beach, so packing minimally for the beach is a must.  But, there are lots of great inexpensive beach club that rent chairs and have restaurants connected to them, so there is no need to carry much with you to the beach.  From there it is easy to walk over to the famous Isola Bella and tour the house on the island, that is in surprisingly good form. But, you should know that you must be “clothed” to enter (4 euro cash fee), that means shirts for men and at least a bathing suit cover-up for women. There are also more beaches with better sand just a short drive away in Giardini Naxos.

To take a break from all the sun and beach, we decided to visit Barone de Villegrande winery on Mount Etna.  That was really a great break from the heat, as the temperatures dropped at least 10 degrees as you climb the volcano.  The winery we visited had a lunch pairing, which we opted for; it was a fantastic value and the wines were wonderful.

Granite is a famous food from Sicily, that is kind of like a slushy made from real fresh ingredients. Enjoying the granite at Bam Bar is one stop that must be made while in Taormina.  There is often a long wait, but it is well worth it.  Their most famous flavor is almond and I also loved the strawberry with fresh cream.  The traditional way to eat this is along with a brioche, where you are scooping the granite onto the brioche and eating it all together.

Don’t skip the Teatro Greco amphitheater which dates back to the 3rd century BC.

Taormina also has a great nightlife scene worth checking out.  Morgana is a swanky DJ spot with an instagram worthy vibe.  Blue Sky Bar is a rooftop spot with epic views.

A couple of other great recommendations from our AirBnb host were Tiramisu Ristorante Pizzeria (we actually went twice in our weeklong stay) and Pasticceria D’Amore where Sicilian cannoli are filled to order.

Tiramisu Ristorante & Pizzeria, Viale Apollo Arcageta, 9, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy

Mendolia Beach Club, Via Nazionale, 198, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy

Ristorante Lido la Pigna, Via Mazzaró, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy

Bam Bar, Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy

Bar Turisi, Via Papa Pio IX, 19, 98030 Castelmola ME, Italy

Barone de Villegrande Winery, Via del Bosco, 25, 95010 Milo CT, Italy

Morgana Lounge Bar, Scesa Morgana, 4, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy

Blue Sky Bar, Salita Ciampoli, 9, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy